The Umpqua Valley beckons you to explore a unique, varied, wine-growing region where you will meet winemakers, enjoy Pacific Northwest cuisine, and revel in pastoral rural scenery. This friendly, laid-back area will embrace you, and you will love it.
The Umpqua Valley Winegrowers Association website states, “The Umpqua Valley is the cradle of modern Oregon fine wine.” The “100 Valleys of the Umpqua,” with over 150 soil types (more than any other grape-growing region), are teeming with lush rolling vineyards and over 30 wineries growing 50+ grape varieties.
Geologist Ben Shupack describes this unique terroir, “The diverse geology of Umpqua Valley includes a colossal blend of volcanics, marine gravity deposits, and oceanic crust, which were all bulldozed together as exotic terranes while smashing into the west coast of North America over the last 200 million years. Each of these terranes has their own unique rock properties which control topography, drainage, microclimates and soil formation.”
Where to Wine
Every winery has a story. As you hear the stories, you’ll understand why so many people have picked up roots and chosen the Umpqua Valley as their home. And, whereas wine may be the focus, there is much to discover, learn, and be amazed by.
The Umpqua Valley: Where Oregon Pinot Noir (and more) Was Born
You can only visit a handful of wineries in the Umpqua within a few days; to get you started, here are suggestions to begin your journey, meeting the wines, area, and people.
Start your adventure in the Elkton, Oregon sub-AVA (est. 2013) of the Umpqua Valley AVA (1984).
Fun (geek) Fact: The technical name of the Elkton AVA is Elkton Oregon AVA (no separating comma)!
This is a cooler climate AVA, producing elegant wines (Pinot Noir, of course) …but there is much more.
Visit Knoll Vineyards at Tomaselli’s Pastry Mill & Café, a community gathering place in Elkton (population about 170) for over 40 years. Leslie and Steve Beckley purchased the bakery when the original owners retired; they just couldn’t let this iconic eatery disappear. Enjoy wood-fired pizza and other delectable dishes along with Pinot Noir (plus other cool climate estate varietals) from Beckley’s sustainable vineyard.
Brandborg Winery (2015 Oregon Winery of the Year) is just across the street. Terry and Sue Brandborg moved here in 2002, being true pioneers of the area. Visit them and ask about “The Love Puppets.” Aside from producing refined wines, including an unusual (aromatic and tasty) white Pinot Noir, they (like most) have a wonderful story to share.
Fun Fact: Elkton, Oregon, was the southernmost outpost of the Hudson Bay Company in the 1850s.
At River’s Edge, you will be treated to more cool climate wines where Mike and Vonnie Landt offer up some uncommon varietals: Aligoté and Baco Noir (a French hybrid developed in the 1890s). As you will find, sustainability and responsible farming is a commitment not taken lightly. “River’s Edge Winery seeks to produce great wines by means which have no lasting consequences for our environment or the planet.“
Oregon’s First Pinot Noir
Perhaps one of the most significant wineries in Oregon is HillCrest Winery, Oregon’s oldest estate winery and the birthplace of Oregon’s Pinot Noir.
Established in 1961 by Richard Sommer, the first commercial bottling of Oregon Pinot Noir took place here in 1967. The current owner, Dyson DeMara, who mentored under Robert Mondavi and also at Napa’s Pine Ridge Estates, describes himself as “a soil guy” who searched the world for the “right place” to grow grapes before settling on the Umpqua Valley. You will get a fun, informative, educational tasting at Hillcrest, and as Dyson says: “Good wine tastes like a grape, great wine tastes like a place, we make wine to taste beautiful, done the right way, done the old way.”
Throughout the Umpqua Valley, you will experience wines grown from different parts of the world, which is made possible because of the area’s unique and varied climate and terroir.
Fun Fact: The Umpqua River is the 2nd largest river in the U.S. emptying into the Pacific Ocean.
The Country’s and Oregon’s First Tempranillo
Another “first” you will discover is at Abacela Winery, where owner Earl Jones was the first person to bring Spain’s noble grape, Tempranillo, to Oregon and the Pacific Northwest. Seventeen varietals are grown on this beautiful, historic property (originally homesteaded in 1849)-including Spanish, Portuguese, French, and Italian. During your tasting, be sure to enjoy their Port, a blend of the five traditional Portuguese grapes. Abacela is known as “Oregon’s most interesting vineyard property.” Visit it and see why (and ask about the fault line).
The Country’s and Oregon’s First Grüner Veltliner
Continuing your adventure along the Umpqua River Valley, you come to Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards. The wine caves, including separate tasting alcoves, culminate a vision by winemaker/owner Stephen Reustle. Reustle was the United States’ first winery to commercially produce Grüner Veltliner. Enjoying many of the fifteen varietals grown here demonstrates why Reustle is Oregon’s most-awarded winery. In 2023, out of 5500 wines reviewed in the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Reustle’s Grüner was named the #1 White Wine in the competition. Reustle has also been awarded “Winery of the Year” five times by different organizations.
Fun Fact: The name “Umpqua” means “a place along the river.” Named by a British horticulturist in 1825-what could be more descriptive of what would eventually come?
Visit Roseburg’s Urban Wineries
The City of Roseburg (1851) grew up along both sides of the Umpqua River and features two urban wineries.
Paul O’Brien Winery
Paul O’Brien Winery is the valley’s first urban winery. Located in what remains of a 1936 Chevrolet dealership, here you will explore the variety of the Umpqua. In the comfortable lounge, taste many older vintages, including (but not limited to) Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot, and Sangiovese. This boutique producer makes wine using an old-world tradition and new-world techniques. (When visiting, ask about the name-another great story).
Local Fact: In 1959, there was a devastating explosion across the street from a truck carrying dynamite and ammonium nitrate, causing death and destruction within a 30-block radius. Part of the Chevy dealership was shielded, and you can see the original showroom floor in the tasting room.
Trella Vineyards
Trella Vineyards is a gathering place where locals congregate to enjoy good wine (by glass, bottle, or tasting), socialize, and relax. Drs. Stephen (oncologist) and Susan Williams (orthopedic surgeon) purchased land and created a vineyard from scratch. This is their “after-day-job” relaxation, and they love sharing their Pinot Gris, Tempranillo, and Malbec, in addition to other varietals they grow, with the local community and visitors. Hosting local trivia nights and winemaker dinners every few months, this is another destination.
Every Umpqua Valley winery has a wonderful story to tell; you will find winemakers and staff eager to share their stories and wines.
You will be drawn in by their infectious passion, which is expressive of the tight-knit community. Winemakers say their wine expresses the “place,” yet it is they who truly make the Umpqua Valley “THE place” to explore.
Where to Dine
“Drinking wine is just a part of life, like eating food” (Francis Ford Coppola).
In the Umpqua Valley, you will enjoy fine (yet unpretentious) dining, paired with excellent wines, in comfortable venues where you immediately feel like you are part of the family.
As with the wineries in the Umpqua that express the individual’s personality, so do restaurants. Here are a few to consider for excellent food, charming, intimate settings, and personal stories reflected in the food they serve.
The Parrott House
The Parrott House (listed on Oregon’s National Historic Register) is an 1891 Victorian home originally owned by the Parrott family. Following the Parrott family’s last surviving family member passing, this magnificent structure sat vacant for years, falling into disrepair, until Heidi Lael, a local developer with a vision, purchased the property in 2011, turning it into a premier destination dining house, opening in 2017. Heidi’s dream was to create the wine and dining equivalent of Kevin Costner’s “Field of Dreams,” and indeed, she has. She has built it, and “they” (and you and I) do come to wine, dine, and be engrossed by experiencing a living fairy tale. In the seven years since opening, Heidi’s passion project has garnered awards and been featured in food and travel media, including The Travel Channel and America’s Best Restaurants.
Chef Aaron Hixson’s creations are comfortable, creative, and familiar, using the freshest ingredients that support the community. Whether a five-course wine-paired meal or a simple salad and main, this is first-class dining in a restored venue with repurposed materials, respectful of preserving the environment and community.
Heidi Lael has created an oasis and homage to history, food, and. wine. The Parrott House is a must-dine destination in Roseburg.
True Kitchen and Bar
True Kitchen and Bar in Roseburg is a dream come true, Lisa Caven’s dream. After about thirty years in the restaurant hospitality business, in 2016, owner Lisa Cavens took the leap to open her own restaurant in downtown Roseburg. Lisa described her menu as “elevated comfort food,” and I described it as absolutely yummy. This is a scratch kitchen focusing on locally sourced, farm-to-table ingredients. There is also a unique wine list offering exclusively Umpqua Valley wines. Through her years in the community, Lisa built a stellar reputation for always putting the customer first, and this is shown in their service. Food allergy? No problem, the kitchen will work around it. Likes and dislikes? No problem. Want to change a menu item, substitute, or prepare differently from what is described on the menu? It’s the diner’s call. This is the restaurant where locals come to feel at home, to gather, visit, relax, and dine comfortably. Lisa and her staff have one focus: YOU.
Every dish is prepared fresh, with love, and beautifully presented. You’ll want to start with appetizers for the table and then pick your entrees. But one thing is for certain: Save room for dessert! Gourmet, simple, elegant, and tasty-one meal at True will never be enough. You will come back for the food and the friendly service where everyone is treated as family.
The Umpqua Valley has SO much to offer: Wine (and Oregon wine history), great food, beautiful scenery, outdoor activities such as hiking, exploring along Oregon’s Highway of Waterfalls, biking, fishing, and simply the good life and stepping back into the warmth and hospitality “of yesteryear.”
Fun Fact: There is a 31-mile stretch on the Upper Umpqua River that is exclusively reserved for fly fishing!
If you are looking to discover a true hidden gem, visit Oregon’s “Shangri-La,” and then plan your return adventure as I am.
Don Sonderling is a freelance writer covering California’s Wine Country lifestyle, and culture. He and his wife are constantly sipping their way from Santa Barbara to Napa, focusing on Paso Robles and the Central Coast, where they have explored for about 25 years. Don has earned his WSET2 (Wine and Spirits Education Trust) certification, has completed the Bourgogne Masterclass through the Napa Valley Wine Academy, and is a member of the LA. Wine Writers.
Focusing on the people and unique experiences to be had, Don’s goal is to have people read about California’s amazing wine country adventures, seeing it through his eyes, and say: “I want to go there, try that, meet them,” and enrich the lives of others as his has been, by exploring California’s wine roads.
